It’s been seven weeks since I put new wheels, tires, cassette, chain, brake pads and disc rotors on Kuroko in one big maintenance session. After a huge fight to get the tires on the rims, the stopping point in the end was the front brake caliper, which wouldn’t expand enough to allow the wheel to turn freely.

I knew I had to get the bleed screw off the shifter to force the hydraulic pistons apart, but I’d over-tightened the screw at some point in the past and the hex socket was rounded out from my efforts to budge it.

After watching some crusty old English mechanic use a cutting wheel to notch a bleed screw and then use a flat-bladed screwdriver to remove it, I knew what I had to do. Unfortunately, my first try last weekend ended up with an off-center cut that wasn’t square-edged enough to allow the driver to bite.

With some time to sleep on the problem, I realized the best course was to try again at right angles to the original notch. I was worried about cutting into the rubber hood with the Dremel, and so did my best to pull the hood out of the way before continuing. This was very tough going, and in the end I took a small cut out of it (but it didn’t go through to the surface).

I spent 30 seconds with the Dremel cutting wheel, focusing on keeping the wheel perpendicular to the surface of the bleed screw. Then I picked up the screwdriver to see how much more I’d have to go and — it just moved the bleed screw, as if to say, “So what’s the worry, mate?”

With the bleed screw removed, I was able to push the brake pistons back far enough to fit the bleed block in place, although it was still a fight. I took my time with the bleeding, making sure not to lose any of the small bits and trying to minimize spilled hydraulic fluid. I didn’t notice any bubbles coming through or any real change in the brake lever feel, so I just pumped until I felt confident it was going to work.

The front wheel went in without a fight, and after adjusting the caliper it was turning with just a little brake rubbing. I’m hoping it will work itself out after a ride or two. (If not I may have to look for contamination in the caliper or hose.)

I finished up by testing the rear brake — all good — and adjusting the rear derailleur (after refreshing my memory with a tutorial). The front tire was completely flat again, which may be a bent valve core or an incomplete seal with the tubeless tire. After reinflating that, I put the saddle bag back on and put the tire levers and a spare inside. She’s ready for a ride.

Update: Hornsby shifting sorted

I also wanted to get Hornsby’s shifting sorted out. I’d managed to get things a bit loosey-goosey during the Tour de Tohoku, based on a previous ride where the derailleur needed a bit of persuasion to stay in the lowest gear. I further mixed that up during a commute last week where I was confusing mid-ride which direction to turn the barrel adjuster to loosen or tighten the cable.

I had to wait for Nana to return from the sauna to call the security office* so I could return Kuroko to the basement parking via the freight elevator. Then it was up into the Workshop in the Sky with Hornsby. I’d refreshed my memory with Calvin Jones’s tutorial on mechanical derailleur adjustment, and it only took a couple of minutes of turning things this way and that to get the shifting back into line.

… on the stand. I’ll no doubt have a chance this week to see how it all works out in practice.

* I could do this for myself, but a) I’m very insecure about making phone calls, and b) I have experience of the workers there being a bit obtuse about my requests (i.e., I need to practice the lingo more).